Entrance to the huge illegal Israeli settlement/colony of Ariel, north of Ramallah
At home in Cambridge Massachusetts I am now recounting my trip to southeast USA with my photographic presentations about Palestine & Israel, in 15 parts, one for each day.
Photos from the trip, In passing: the south :: February 2009
Photos in this entry from In the West Bank with Machsom Watch and Esti Tsal (November 2007)—part 1
Machsom Watch (Checkpoint Watch), a group of volunteer Israeli women, monitors checkpoints in the occupied Palestinian territories. Esti Tsal led me and a few friends on her monitoring session, meeting us in Jaffa-Tel Aviv, and driving effortlessly into settlements to demonstrate how easy being oblivious to the occupation is for most Israelis.
It is 7 AM on the train home, crossing one of the many rivers in and near DC, passing government buildings, most empty since this is Sunday, sitting in the café car sipping Amtrak coffee, nibbling on dates, Newton fig bars, grapes, watching people come and go with their breakfasts and a tad sore from the night sleeping in the coach which required sharing my 2 seater with a fairly large friendly young man.
I am slowly mastering the art of sleeping on a train, discovering how to stretch, roll to one side to relieve aches, treat my arthritis with respect and love, not worry too much about not deep sleeping. I’m aware I sleep when I awaken to a dream.
My night seatmate lives in Lynn Massachusetts, grew up in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, moved north for work because he was sick of Florida and now wishes to return home. He’d been visiting friends. He stayed up long past my bedtime when sleeping on trains (about 8:30) to play video games on his tiny $300 laptop. He told me earlier that while coming south by train he couldn’t sleep until he loaded himself with beer.
Advertising subsidized housing, Ariel
Ariel
The off day in Jacksonville turned out to be mostly 1. visiting with Z and his family, including his gorgeous and outgoing kids, 2. taking in the several exhibits at the Museum of Contemporary Art, including selections form their permanent photo collection, 3. appreciating a coffee house and bookstore, also the library with its excellent collection of displayed photos, 4. fruitlessly searching for the Museum of the South which turned out to be a closed storefront, and 5. worrying about when V and M, the two Syrian women who’d become my designated drivers, would return from shopping to drive me to the train station. They’d found a discount outlet for high-end women’s clothing and each bought large basketfuls of clothes. M forgot our meeting time and had left her cell phone in the SUV so I couldn’t remind her.
Z is encouraging me to circulate my slide shows more widely, either by establishing a program which would train people to give the shows, ala Al Gore, or put them into DVD form, also ala Gore. I favor the second, and remember that he’s not the first to suggest this. He thought videoing was fundable, and that as a last resort he might himself fund it. I’m to research methods and costs. The video that folks did in Aiken might be a pilot. I’m eager to consider this possibility; I’m heartened that people suggest it, affirming the value of my programs.
He seems deeply committed to social transformation. We discussed why so many are so mute on this topic, inactive, dormant. His main suggestion was the fullness of time, i.e., people are too busy. He himself works long hours as a cardiologist, then he has his family obligations. I can guess that buying things occupies him as well, the house for instance, that he recently moved into. When driving me in his relatively new BMW sports car—he also had a BMW SUV—he confessed, I’m embarrassed by this car, never thought to consider its gas mileage and now I can’t sell it.
Hawwara checkpoint
Rick, Marty, Esti Tsal
Preparing to leave, the family gave me a large plastic bag of food for the train, fresh grapes, high quality dates (the moist kind), flat bread, rolled cheese, and a large heavy box of Arabic sweets. Plus anything else I might desire and be able to fit into my luggage. I declined. Z also donated about $250, making some $500 from this venue alone, probably my most generous of this trip.
His home: maybe 6,000 sq ft (compared to my 700), or more, a pool, large lawn, long corridors, high ceilings, plenitude of toys and games and food and furniture. He might be embarrassed by this as well. Despite his consumer patterns he seemed to genuinely feel my life style was laudable. He said so, referring several times to my life as a model, my life as a story, which may be the most impressive component in my presentations. Not so much my economic picture but my obvious willingness to face danger to foster justice and peace.
When I use the word shaheed referring to Rachel Corrie and more generally those who die because of the struggle, a martyr, audiences might perceive that Skip Schiel also could become a shaheed. Would this be the ultimate irony in my shows?
Rick told to go back, Hawwara
Once situated in my rented 30-hour mobile home, the train, I began culling from my travel journal, to consider a blog form. Since I’ve made very few photos on this trip (an entire batch perhaps lost to a memory card malfunction) I might use photos from the shows. The simple act of culling is a review, a digestion, a contemplation of what I’ve just done. Culling always raises the questions of relevance and propriety—what fits and how much to disclose? Instance: excising the woman I shared a seat with to Ashville NC when arriving in the south because it is so personal and irrelevant.
After reaching home I will total up shows given, audiences shown to, money earned. And I will delight in deciding how much and how to donate to various Palestine/Israel organizations, Ma’an Development Center tops among them. (Reminding me that I’ve heard nothing from my friend in Gaza in weeks who works for Ma’am, Yusef. Is he alive?)
Examining for explosive belts, Hawwara
I wish I could say more about my impressions of Jacksonville. Big, sprawling, sandy, close to water, both the ocean and a large river. Relatively new, multi cultural, high crime rate, not teeming with cultural amenities. What is its history, its destiny? Would I ever consider a photo project about Florida? Why not? One stream might be retracing the route and experiences of my parents while they honeymooned there. I vividly recall a photo of them standing proudly together on a high rock, both looking so young, elegant, beautiful and happy.
Yesterday was Valentine’s Day. I received one, from the older of the two Z daughters. Cut out from red paper, inscribed to “Mr. Schiel.” But without a declaration of love, which is appropriate. We just met and she is no more than 8 years old. Otherwise, no messages of love. Except one: a bulk mailing from Chris J. Oh well, my reality. And oh well, perhaps today when I open my email I’ll find a little surprise. But then I shouldn’t discount the many recent letters from Y, remaining one of my most reliable correspondents. And then I could inquire: have I sent any love messages out? (I’ve not.)
Esti with the District Coordination Officer
It is now 7:30 AM, just leaving DC, clear sky, sun fully up, cold weather. We are racing thru the countryside just outside DC. Rails better here? Where is Obama at this moment and what is he doing? Since he and Michelle have enrolled their two daughters in a Quaker school, is he tempted to attend a Quaker meeting with his family?
—February 15, 2009, Sunday, on the train, written in and while pulling out of the DC railroad station
This is the last in this series. For a full report.
Machsom Watch volunteers relieving Esti
Report of April 4, 2009, 8:25 AM
The traffic of pedestrians into the town is heavy. The narrow turnstiles are crowded and jammed. The Palestinians complain that the disabled crossing is not open and there is no one to talk to about it. The exit from the town is less crowded. The humanitarian lane is open. A man is detained. According to the DCO representative he tried to cross via the humanitarian lane, he was refused and then tried his luck again in a vehicle. A while later he is released.
The queue of cars leaving the town is quite short. An x-ray machine, a dog handler and a DCO representative are present. Three lanes are open but the inspection is slow and thorough and the queue grows and grows.
A bus driver complains that at Za’atra only buses are held up for about half an hour for an additional inspection, therefore, most of the passengers prefer to travel by taxi causing the buses to lose business. He claims that it is not fair. And the roadblock is fair?
Three photographers from ‘news agencies’ stand on the traffic island filming the queue of cars. They did not tell us what brought them to the roadblock. In the car park one can buy tea, coffee and non Passover food.
THank you for writing this blog, Skip. This is the first I’ve taken a moment to read from you in a while. I always find myself transported. You are a good writer. Clear, interesting, intimate. The subject matter is SO important. And the photos reveal a great deal… As I was reading I wondered if there is a way on my Facebook page that I can list a link that brings people here. I bet there is and I will do that… I don’t know if it would be an “irony” if you became “shaheed.” I would say it is more a natural consequence of standing up so courageously for justice. Not that you will definitely be martyred but it wouldn’t be completely unexpected. (dang! Lets not go there, though, ‘kay???) And yes, I join you in guessing that many who look on you at your presentations feel the fear associated with standing up. The free-est place to live from though takes action for justice. My hat is off to you, as ever… Oh, yeah – sorry about that: “no love” sent to you on Valentine’s Day. Next year I’ll be sure to remember you! Love ever and keeping you in my prayers, as ever. Madeleine. Nam myoho renge kyo.
I would love to comment about several things you have noted but would first like to ask: How many times have you been to the region? How much time did you spend amongst people with a different viewpoint?
Your initial labeling of a “Settlement” as “illegal” betrays your inherent bias. There has never, ever been a nation called “Palestine,” nor has ANY Arab Nation ever existedd on one iota of land there. Ergo, labeling a Jewish Community sitting atop land that has only ever held Jewish Nations as an “Illegal settlement” is fantasy at best, ignorance or malice more probablly.
My name is Rachamim Ralanan Ben Ami and my ancestral home is in Hebron. My family lived there from the Biblical Era until 1929 when my grandfather, Rabbi Slonim Dwek was butchered on the front steps of our home. My eldest uncle, in his arms at age 3, was but into pieces and discarded as rubbish.
The British expelled my father (several months old) and the rest of my family for “our safety” and from 1929 until 1967 noone in my family could even eneter the city.
Today Jews LIKE ME living there are called, by people LIKE YOU, “illegal settlers.” This despite Arabs now having 22 nations of their own to call home. This despite Arabs being native only to al Hajaz, a tiny reagion in what is today Saudi Arabia.
Settlers DO live on the land but they are NOT Jews. You like taking pocitures? Next time you take a vacation to my country let me know, I will make sure you get to take photos of the doorstep where my grandfather and uncle were butchered…
All you foreigners do is make things worse, you have np understanding of even the most basic facts, associating with hard-leftist groups like Machshon (beautiful thing they did with the “Violin Scandal” among aothers) and do not stop for a second to realise that were Israel even 10% as oppressive as these groups claim, they could not be taking you around on tours!
THINK.
Thank you for taking the time to think about some of what I wrote and showed via my photos and present your own opinions. After some reflection on your words, here’s what I think:
First, the killing of Jews by Arabs in Hebron in 1929, as you powerfully wrote, was an atrocity. In one of my photographic presentations I include this, deploring it. In researching this event I discovered that apparently some Arabs came to the aid of their Jewish neighbors, not however able to stop the carnage. You rightly refer to it, and of course Arabs and Palestinians can list a number of atrocities committed against them by Jews and Israelis, Gaza only the most recent example.
Some, maybe you, will say, but wait a moment, doesn’t Israel have a right to defend itself, stop the rocket attacks? We can debate this further if you wish.
You ask how many times I’ve been to Palestine/Israel. This is my fifth trip since I began this project of photographic discovery in 2003, and each have included parts of Israel—Haifa, Nazareth, Tel Aviv, Acre/Acre, other parts of the Galilee, Jerusalem of course, among others. I hope on this trip to explore Israeli experience more fully, eventually living on a kibbutz. This would fulfill a dream I’ve had since a youth. I’m also working with two joint Palestine/Israel organizations.
By the way, in 1966-67 I taught in an orthodox Jewish school in Boston. In June I shared my colleagues’ and students’ exultation about Israel winning that lightning war. I was a Zionist at that phase, opposed to Palestine national rights, especially when taking a militant form of advocacy. I’ve changed. As have many of my Jewish friends in the USA, once ardent supporters of Israel, now equally ardent critics of the state.
Yes, Rachamim, there is hope for Israel, and I believe it comes more from those who point out its failed and failing policies, like the occupation, than from those who support without question its path, a suicidal one in my view. And I’m not the first to believe this. Ilan Poppe for the most recent example, going back to Albert Einstein and Martin Buber who opposed the formation of Israel if it did not guarantee the rights of its indigenous Arab population.
The settlements are illegal according to international law and UN resolutions. “Land holding only Jewish nations”? I beg to differ. We read history differently. An Israeli within the past year disclosed documents proving that some 40% of the land settlements now occupy belongs legally to Palestinians.
I’m certain I’ve not responded to all your thoughtful points. Perhaps we can continue the conversation later?
It’s always a pleasure to see pictures from Israel. Your positions are of course prejudicial because they represent your personal view and the associated bias that we all have for our own perspectives. No one ever really takes the time to be scrupulously even handed about the Israeli ethos, it’s possible to pick any kind of side of any kind of issue and then find facts of one’s own to support them. I served with Ts’hal, or the IDF if you prefer, as a foreign volunteer or mitnadev b’chutz Israel. Most of my service was spent in the southern command area and so in and around Gaza. Now some would call the firing of over 8000 rockets from Gaza into Israeli towns and farms an illegal act but then again it is convenient to ignore this kind of thing when it does not fit your picture profile of your trip. Having been on the receiving end of these love notes from Gaza, I can tell you there was nothing peaceful about their intent. I remember a young girl about 13 who never had a chance to outgrow her braces, not a settler or a soldier, but just someone committing the crime of trying to get to school, killed by one of the many senseless acts of violence perpetrated against the Israelis during the never ending attacks by Gazan inhabitants. The inconvenience of the check points is a price to be paid to protect against this sort of thing. The other sad thing is the many gazan arabs who are caught in the middle of this and unfortunately have to suffer because of the violent hatred of others. The young soldier in your pictures, like I was, would no doubt rather be doing other things with his time, that is not fun duty, but, it is necessary to protect lives both jewish and arab. Not a perfect system I grant you but until everyone agreees to stop shooting, it is the best defense we have. bc
bill campbell,
thanks for your thoughtful remarks to my blog.
on my trip to the region this summer i visited sderot, specifically for learning some of what you outlined, to experience different realities. in this case to meet with residents who’ve suffered the unconscionable attacks from rockets launched by militants in gaza (where i’d just lived and worked for one month). i blog about this if you care to read and see what i discovered.
we might differ on the wisdom of the matrix of control, the mechanism of the occupation—checkpoints, settlements, home demolitions, separation wall, permit system, incursions, administrative detention, and the like—and about outcomes that it might produce. i for one share a viewpoint with many of my jewish friends and israeli analysts like gideon levi and amira hass, that many of israel’s actions are not only illegal and immoral, but ultimately self destructive. we’ve not seen the last of the goldstone report on gaza.
–skip