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Excerpts from my journal during a three month journey of photographic discovery in the Land of Troubles

Photos

August 14, 2009, Friday, Gaza City, The Gaza Strip, my apartment:

Another dream about Y, in a comparatively long series of dreams about her: with a small group of about 6 close friends of hers, we gathered around her to chant namu’s, the Buddhist chant that we’ve long shared. She needed them for some reason, I led the effort, she was grateful.

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Big day photographing: the Popular Achievement (PA) festival, marking the completion of its 6th cycle. It differed markedly from the one in the West Bank—no exhibits, only one performance (dabka), much shorter, and with a very good video that I’d like to purchase for showing in the States. This video depicted the recent violence, embedding PA in this mesh of suffering. It featured interviews with participants, both coaches, students, and a few parents, one, for instance, talking bout how inspiring it was for his daughter. I have the feeling—and this might be self-serving—that PA is growing in importance in the Gaza Strip, more widely recognized, acknowledged, appreciated.

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Photoing it was tricky. My students had limited access—banned from the stage, from the front of the audience, only allowed in the corners and at the sides. Plus they have rudimentary equipment. Ibrahem granted me full rights as an official photographer of the event, including mounting the stage and walking in front of the audience. I’d brought my heavy equipment for students to see and if interested use. I showed it, explained a little about some of it, but none chose to try it.

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The lighting was difficult—too dark for the audience, too much brightness range between audience and stage. So I have no idea how much my students were able to photograph and learn, since learning was the main purpose of this exercise. Several commented when leaving that they found the experience valuable. When we meet next Tuesday we’ll see up to 5 prints from each, plus run thru memory cards projected onto the screen, all this in addition to the assignment, show beauty.

My telephoto lens helped enormously, as did the normal (which does not seem quite normal in its view, more a short telephoto like 80 mm), the wide performed its magic, I never used the normal zoom or the big flash.

As with the Ramallah festival, exuberance zapped thru the atmosphere. Much excitement. Many families attended and so when I thought I’d finished, numerous folks called me to their grouping or family for a portrait. Many chose to stand in front of the large photo of Jerusalem on the back of the stage. Only belatedly did I realize this was what they wanted highlighted. This was wearying but maybe I provided a small service.

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The way I work photographically, usually, is to observe a scene long enough to begin thinking of photos I could make. Where to put myself, what to include, exclude, how to light it, when to trigger the exposure, a combination of intuition and strategy. At times I feel I can visualize the image—as if writing a script or storyboard—and then have to implement the vision.

I hounded poor Amal, over and over again photographing her, not only because she is one of the most important persons in PA, being the director, but because of her natural radiance. Her expression is often powerful, a mixture of benevolence and anxiety, serenity and turmoil. When she noticed me she planted a happy smile, I waited for it to change.

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Ibrahem Shatalil (L), Mosab Abu Dagga (C), Amal Sabawi (R)

Women sat on one side, men on the other, with a few rebels mixing.  The PA staff all dressed formally, suits (hot and humid suits) for the men, fancy clothing for Amal. This is much different from the West Bank. Nearly all women were covered. Being an outsider from a relatively liberal background and having an iconoclastic nature (so I pride myself) I cannot begin to imagine what all the social mixing in PA means to Gazans. Do many oppose it? What does Hamas think?

I heard my name mentioned by speakers, many eyes shifted toward me, I was briefly honored several times. I smiled and waved. At one point I began preparing a short speech, a few remarks, in case Amal called on me to speak. She didn’t. Here’s a sketch of what I might have said:

Here I am again in Gaza, a stranger among friends. People back home in the US often ask me, Skip, Gaza again, why Gaza? Are you slightly crazy? What draws you? Can’t you find a safer place to visit? Got a death wish, old boy?

Initially my Quaker connection drew me. My core religious community is Quaker, I work with the American Friends Service Committee which is the sponsoring organization of the Quaker Palestine Youth Program, and so when I heard about contemporary Quaker work in Gaza I wanted to learn about it. (I recalled that Quakers were here in 1947 helping with what they thought was resettlement of refugees. After one year, when they realized no one would be resettled but made into permanent refugees, they painfully left, turning the operation over to the UN.) Then I met Ibrahem and I was hooked. Those of you who know Ibrahem know what sort of person he is: gracious, loving, dedicated, willing to take risks for his convictions (up to a point), knowledgeable, effective, and such a good devoted friend—habibi. How can I say no to Ibrahem?

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On that first trip in 2003, only for 3 days, sharing a tiny apartment with a group of 3 university students, all of us sleeping on the floor in one room, he brought me to 2 PA sites and I was impressed. One a landscaping project, and the other a library staffed by volunteers.

During that year Amal was stuck in Jordan because of the closure. I met her on my next trip the following year. And I was double hooked, there was now no way I could not come to Gaza regularly. And Mosab, and Denese, and Rawand, and Adham, and Noor, and Wafa’a, and Mohammed, and Mohaned, and Issam, and Islam, and Adham, and Mohammed, and Mustafa, and Carmel, and Asma’a, and the list goes on and on.

This group of friends and their work and my wish to show people in my country who they are and what they do, I tell my family and friends who worry about me coming to Gaza, thinking me strange and inscrutable, is why I come to Gaza.

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Then home for my best part of the day, shower and nap, and then a snack, and then—by now the sun is relenting, the day beginning  to cool—to Popeye’s and the cheery waiter, Khalel, a drink (ginger  tea for 7 NIS), and my internet work. So there were a few electricity stops, they turned on the generator, rebooted the router, and I resumed my play.

Slowly I’m sending photos or notices that I can’t send photos to all who’ve requested them. I’m confused at times which email address goes with which portrait. I must devise a better way of organizing this. When I’m in the field and people are besieging me with requests to make they Surrah, or photo, I’m not entirely self-possessed.

I should soon catch up on my various ideas for writing, listed in my notebook. Today, being Friday, is off day. But first I down my pills, clean my table of food plates, replenish my coffee, edit what I’ve just written, and then sit down for more writing.

In searching for the W. Eugene Smith photo of mother and daughter from Minimata I discovered that the family had withdrawn permission to circulate it. The copyright had gone to Smith’s ex wife, Eileen, after his death (at 60!) and she’d met with the family to decide about circulation. The father particularly felt it was time to honor the daughter (who’d died about 5 years after the photo was made) by restricting use of the photo and refusing any interviews. So Eileen, a person of integrity, agreed and turned the copyright over to the family. So we can see the photo in existent media but will not be able to use it for new media. Meaning, if I were to make a video about Smith and wish permission to use the photo, I’d be denied.

And rightly. I agree with this decision. It may represent a trend to turn rights to photos back to those in the photos, the photographer or photo agency is no longer all-powerful.

I wonder if this someday will affect any of my work. I’m also curious about her relationship with Gene. In her explanatory letter she writes that they were colleagues, fighting together, and also he was her mentor. Sounds partially familiar, with respect to Y—certainly fighting together as colleagues, tho I doubt she’d regard me as her mentor, rather, the opposite. And for a future relationship perhaps I’d learn something from the story of Eileen and Gene.

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Adham Khalel and family

There are reports of Al Qaeda growing in Gaza, and other more radical militant violent groups as well. Reportedly those most militant in Hamas are defecting to such groups. and moderates are not well liked and tend to self-silence or leave, like YAG and B, but unlike A and Dr Mona. These external militants, I read, possibly come from Iraq, or have fought in Iraq.Others deny this. I presume they enter thru the tunnels. And might bring heavier weapons with them. Thus Israel can appropriately be worried (the Israeli papers carry warnings to border communities, especially about tunneling) and might be motivated to increase its vigilance. But how can it succeed militarily?

Israel is now offering ten million dollars for information about the location of the Gilad Shalit, the captured Israeli soldier. A joked about this, let’s phone the Israeli army and say we know where he is, in the Quaker offices, and then we’d duck as they attacked. Joking aside, I might have shared a building with him, or a neighborhood, or a community. What’s his experience, captured for 3 years? What condition is he in?

LINKS:

Quaker Palestine Youth Program (in Arabic and English)

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Excerpts from my journal during a three month journey of photographic discovery in the Land of Troubles

Photos:

Qattan Centre for the Child

Atfaluna Society for Deaf Children

August 7 & 11, 2009, Friday & Tuesday, Gaza City, The Gaza Strip, my apartment:

I dreamt I was to meet Alice Rothschild, the physician (and in fact I’m to meet Dr Mona al-Farra today, with Mohammed). Alice had a problem with her car; it needed a new motor or a serious repair of the motor. She told me to wait. I felt very close to her. [Later, meeting Dr. Mona, as she’s lovingly called, she told me as we hailed a taxi,  my car is being repaired, something seriously wrong with the engine. Auspicious?]

My dreams seem strangled, still born, they evaporate rapidly. I’m working with the theory that this is because life is so energized here, and unpredictable, I have so many simultaneous concerns that the leisure needed to let the dreams survive long enough once born to be remembered does not exist. Thus the feeling that I’m not dreaming.

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A fortuitous meeting yesterday when I accompanied the Popular Achievement team including Issam who I’ve not seen until yesterday and Grace to a commemoration of the life of Mahmoud darwish. He died one year ago of heart problems, and died auspiciously in a Texas hospital, the home state of GW Bush, the failed president. He was approximately my age. The meeting was in the Qattan Centre for the Child, an elegant spacious well-lighted building. After about one hour of this—poetry readings, songs and oud, discussion between audience and a poet-critic, all officiated by our own Ibrahem, and of course all in Arabic, no translation—I decided to explore the Centre. And then the 2nd meeting, with the director, the equally elegant and affecting Reem Abu Jaber. I made some photos of her and pray I’ve shown at least a hint of her goodness, generosity, energetic spirit.

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Reem Abu Jaber

The Centre looks and functions much more like a library. It is dedicated to encouraging the love of reading. And I had a sense of its effectiveness while I photographed. Ordinarily kids either hide from my camera or flock to it. In either case, they present a challenge. Here they tended to notice but not concentrate on me so I had much more latitude photographing. For instance, after showing the architecture and lighting I began showing children and parents using the facility. I discovered a boy of about 8 years old peering thru books with his mother. I placed myself opposite them and photographed thru the book stacks. This might be perfect, if it worked. No reaction from the woman who wore a headscarf.

A long tour with Reem—and I could have gone for hours with her, she is so radiant and loveable—with photos along the way. Extensive computer facility, outdoor reading area, small auditorium, sections divided by ages of children, all coordinated spatially by a long hallway connecting the sectors, arches above the corridor, everything open. Reem explained to me that this corridor is intended to mirror the old city of Jerusalem. All is light, airy, colorful.

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Entering the Centre from the cluttered, busy, chaotic, often dirty and noisy streets of the city is like passing thru Alice’s rabbit hole: another world entirely, a magical world where bombs are forbidden, rockets blocked in mid air, white phosphorus shells burst into voluminous, gorgeous cumulus clouds. Books galore, new worlds in a new world.

However I’m not sure I understand Reem’s position about controversy. The Darwish convocation itself expresses controversy, reflecting him, his positions, the fact that he loved an Israeli woman, for instance, a hot topic of discussion. But when I asked her whether they’d host a presentation that is political, using myself as an example, she seemed to say no. She explained this by focusing on how painful the discord between Fatah and Hamas is, that this colors all controversy. She seemed to tell me that the Centre removes itself entirely from anything political or religious. Which might be an error, but who am I to judge?

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After teaching the photo workshop group at the Quaker Palestine Youth Program I called Atfaluna, the center training deaf people, mostly children, in crafts production. Jan H had asked me to bring in cotton since their supply chain is virtually non-existent. They were overjoyed to receive the goods, and meet me personally. I met first Suad, the administrative manager, and then Nabil el Sharif, the executive director.  He gave me permission to tour the facilities and photograph. This might develop further or be only once.

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Nabil is short, lean, wore a white shirt with a hint of black elements in its design. He seems to have boundless energy. His smile is gracious and authentic, compassion radiates from him. He explained to me their current dilemma. During a recent period of many visitors, “war tourism” he imaginatively named it, many people came thru the center and purchased. People like Code Pink delegations. But because of the paucity of raw materials like the cotton I delivered, they are forced to curtail production. They worry that this might worsen and require staff layoffs. Likewise, usually, on the output end, there are few customers. So paradoxically the violence added to one part of their operation.

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The center is clean, well organized, and, being a center for deaf people, very very quiet. I told another staff member, Ibrahem, who toured me that Ramallah is very very noisy, all the time, so this is a sharp contrast. The hour was 3 pm, their closing time, people were preparing to leave for home, so I was not able to show all that might be shown. Whether I return or not depends on the quality of what I’ve made and my other priorities. Children are on vacation thru the end of this month so I will have to miss that aspect.

I wrote Jan later with the good news. And found a letter from her asking me to ask Amal about taxi prices, since when Jan returns in the fall she ‘d like to book Awni for an entire day of touring the strip. What a gal, I love her. And she’s Jewish, a practicing Jew.

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How can life for me ever be boring in Gaza? To the contrary, at times: too exciting, too jammed, and not with enough Skip time, my private down time—to process and use my photos. To fulfill the many promises I’ve made about emailing photos to those I’ve photographed. Like the CD Reem made me promise to send to the Centre, and the photos I’m to email to the young men I photographed on the beach. I need days, weeks, for this.

The electricity was off in my neighborhood during the day for the first time that I’d noticed. So I relied on computer battery power for a few hours of work. And I finally found a minimum quantity of toilet paper (rather than the huge packages of about 20 rolls) so I’m happy once again.

Also for the first time on this visit, the drones [that Israel uses to patrol and sometime attack from—they are a world leader in such lethal technology, soldiers in Tel Aviv targeting people who could be me]. Several of them flew overheard, out of sight, for about one hour yesterday in my neighborhood.

Today is the coolest yet. Nearly chilly, not in my flat which does not have good circulation, but out on the veranda where I presently sit writing this. Yesterday was one of the hottest, nearing 100. The air is now drier.

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LINKS:

Atfaluna Society for Deaf Children

Qattan Centre for the Child

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Arm ripped off by Israeli shell when playing football (soccer) on the previous field during the last assault

Excerpts from my journal during a three month journey of photographic discovery in the Land of Troubles

Photos

August 9, 2009, Nagasaki Anniversary, Sunday, Gaza City, The Gaza Strip, my apartment:

A relatively rich night of dreaming:

For the first time in recent memory I’ve apparently dreamt from a more Israeli point of view, something about fearing an attack from an Arab entity. I forget the details but remember the fear—powerful and all encompassing, driving me to concentrate only on it.

Another dream related to Palestine/Israel—a house I lived in, large and spreading out, with trees on one side planted by Israel, and on the other by one of their opponents. The Israeli trees were well managed, fully watered, trimmed, healthy, beautiful, while the second set of trees were haggard, wizened, dried and dying.

I can’t recall the dreams with much detail or intensity, but at least I’ve recovered the outlines. A glimpse rather than a full view.

A letter from ME, the first since June. She writes marginally about where and what, but with more details about favorite authors, suggesting some more to me. This is proving the best part of our sketchy relationship.

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Another packed day with photography, late developing as usual. I expected to be with Dr. Mona and Mohammed most of the day, at one or more of her projects, but instead Ibrahem called later and invited me to accompany him and several Quaker Palestine Youth Program staff to several sites in Beit Hanoun and along the water. Glad I did, because it provided 2 platforms for photography I’ve wished for: the widespread destruction of buildings, and views from the water back to the land.

In Beit Hanoun, driving there in a taxi packed with Islam [his actual name] and 2 others, plus Ibrahem and me, we observed the first session of a 3 full day workshop in CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) and other first aid techniques. They live in a very dangerous area, so close to the border. The recent violence motivated this group to choose this topic, to receive training and then to train their peers so when and if another attack comes they will be able to perform at least rudimentary rescue techniques. This was lacking during the recent assault, especially because of Israel blocking the medical personnel from rapidly reaching victims. There was something grisly and awful about this first training, thinking how others might be reacting, since the instructor demonstrated on a dummy lying prone in front of everyone. Did this evoke memories of the terror and horror? Even tho I’d not experienced what they’d experienced I felt a chill run thru me when looking at the dummy.

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The 2nd site was a field young men had cleared of debris to make into a football field. Their initial field had been close to the border and the Israelis had repeatedly attacked it, severing the arm of one young man and the thumb of another. Ibrahem introduced me to these two fellows and they allowed me to photograph them. By hand and with the help of a Caterpillar bulldozer they’d completed the clearing and today [August 10, 2009] plan to line the ground with a permanent playing surface and install goalposts. I’m not clear if I will return with Ibrahem today to photograph it.

Ibrahem is such a good guide, patient with me and knowing what will make good photos. He invited us to visit the site of the previous field and there in the near distance sat Sderot, the Israeli town whose residents, all civilians, have been repeatedly targeted by the homemade, poorly targeted, but terror-inducing rockets fired by Gazan militants— not more than 2 km away. I could pick it out by its greenery; it looked like a lush park compared with the surrounding terrain. I tried to show this proximity with each of my 2 lenses, wide and normal, but I doubt I have conveyed the nearness—certainly not the effect of the nearness, the fear and suspicion.

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And then the climax: a wide swath of destroyed buildings, just like I’d imagined before arriving here. Wanton destruction, no apparent reason other than location—too near Israel. Not targeting of Hamas, of fighters, or because of threat to Israelis, just a group of rioting young men, soldiers, with machines, all of them lethal, under the guidance and provocation of their elders, including rabbis. Is this not a war crime? And because I was with Ibrahem who has the heart and tools and language to dig deep we met a few of those displaced, living in tents and caravans, the caravans similar to ones used by settlers stealing land for Israel. This series peaked when we cruised by a cement factory.

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Ibrahem offered to stop so I could photograph with more concentration. He pointed out a cement truck that had been smashed into a portion of the factory. A decapitated truck, its head or cab with motor dangling from the rest of the body. And a tree planted recently in front of a ruined office building. Perfect: cement factory demolished, and if rebuilt, no cement allowed in. I commented to Ibrahem, Very clever of the Israelis: take out a house and you ruin life for a family, maybe 10 people. Take out a factory, especially a cement factory, and you ruin the lives of the workers, owners, and many customers. The multiplier effect. Is this partially what motivated Israel? Is this not a war crime by international law?

When I stood in the field next to the factory, gazing at the carnage in a 360-degree path, I thought, panoramic.

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And finally for a pleasant respite from all this despair-inducing wreckage, the beach. But this time I had the pleasure and terror of riding in one of those large motorboats I’d observed earlier. The plan—and I wasn’t quite sure what the plan was at first—was to unfurl banners announcing the upcoming Popular Achievement festival, and ride around in the wind and waves awhile. I quickly surmised this had one or both of 2 objectives: to cruise up and down the beach advertising the festival or, since we had me and a video crew with us, make visual material that could be circulated on TV or by web.

After a harrying 15 minutes or so lurching up and down and side to side in the waves, me hoping we’d not capsize and lose all our equipment, not to mention our lives, trying different angles because the wind was so fierce often the banners were invisible, we headed to the shore. This allowed me photos from the boat inland. Walking back to the car Ibrahem asked, And what did you think? Well, Ibrahem, exciting, but what was the point? And he explained, the website.

Very clever and innovative, but effective? I’m not sure.

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We’d had a speedy lunch of shuwarma and accessories in the car as we aimed at the beach, and then we dropped off some of the staff at their homes in Beach refugee camp before leaving me at my door for a much needed shower, rest, snack. Ibrahem and I later visited the nearby art gallery which was hosting a show by 6 or so artists. I wish I could report being more impressed with the art, but it struck me as either too abstract for my tastes (“fine, but not for me,” as TS Elliot put it to someone submitting to his poetry journal) or flat, generic, banal (the photos particularly—what I’m afraid my photos too often are). I had a chance to ask 3 of the artists a few questions, among them:

Why not more political content in your art?

We do, in other exhibits, very much so, but we all chose not to reference that aspect of our daily lives in this show.

Why not, I’m not sure I understood the answers, or they my continually probing question.

How do you earn money?

Part of this project is subsidized, and we all have jobs (Shareef Sarhan, painting and photography, is a UNRWA photographer; while Basel al Magossiu and Majed Shala, painting, have jobs with the government, I believe they said). I think some teach at the gallery, called Windows From Gaza and might receive funding for the gallery.

What are your relations with Hamas?

No interference but not much cooperation. We’ve invited them to submit, they haven’t. And when they invited some of us to exhibit they selected on the basis of Muslim attitudes and principles. This reminded me of the most repressive periods in Soviet art. Nazi art also, when ideology ruled, rather than esthetics.

How able are you to move your art thru the border?

Not very, but we can use the internet for this. We’ve been invited to show in several venues outside Israel-Palestine and we’ve been able to convey our work. Sometimes in the distant venue (“Al Aqsa gallery”?) they’ve printed what we sent them via email.

Their space is large and clean, the lighting good (altho electricity shut down part way thru the interview I was trying to audio record), no one else visited while we were there, yet I thought Ibrahem had told me this was the opening (meeting Stephanie later I learned it had occurred earlier), and the facility includes a digital studio for training in digital photo-making and video. We briefly discussed the slight possibility of my QPYP students having an exhibit there. And might bring them to see the current show, despite my misgivings.

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A rich moment, I usually feel very brotherly toward other artists, I only regret the language barrier.

LINKS:

Windows From Gaza

Young Adult Friends (Quakers between the ages of 18 and 35, roughly) Delegation Palestine/Israel—Summer 2010

Sponsored by the Middle East Working Group of Philadelphia Yearly Meeting and Friends International Center in Ramallah

Download informational flyer

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